With the new Srixon Z 765 irons there is a lot that looks eerily similar to their predecessor the Z 745, and that is just the way the company wanted it. In the end, it makes little sense to go after a wholesale change of something that was so highly thought of by amateurs and professionals alike. However, Srixon has still pushed to improve this muscle-cavity irons performance internally, while riding the wave of a classy looking exterior. THP received the new Z 765 irons for review in a 5-PW configuration, paired with the Nippon N.S. Pro MODUS3 Tour 120 shafts in stiff flex.

Specifications:

The basics of Srixon’s V.T. Sole is that by creating a positive bounce angle on the leading edge and a negative bounce angle on the trailing edge of the club there is a “keel” of sorts created in the middle of the sole. What this does is to allow the club to have a sole that will glide through the turf at impact while simultaneously limiting contact time with the turf. At its roots it means more versatility and consistency from a variety of lies and conditions. This year, the sole in the Z 765 has been modified even more to better fit the fact that most mid to low handicap players, who tend to gravitate to a muscle-cavity design like this, have a better/later release of the club through impact. During review, the V.T. Sole stole the show, allowing consistent divot patterns and depth in a plethora of conditions from the soggiest to the most hardpan like. This instilled a confidence in really attacking the ball from all lies as opposed to being concerned about bounce angles as with a lot of traditional style soles with consistent curvature.

Technology Rundown:

There are three key changes in technology that Srixon is focusing on as key performance traits with the Z 765 irons. For the sake of this review, it makes sense to take a closer look to better understand the technology at hand while also discussing how each design feature effected performance during review.

• Smoother Turf Performance – “The new Tour V.T. Sole has been modified to move even more efficiently through the turf, reducing impact resistance and tightening shot dispersion for maximum consistency and control.”

• Unsurpassed Feel – “Combining ultra-soft 1020 carbon steel head material with a new special heat treatment, the new Z65 irons are precision forged for the smoothest, most consistent feel.”

The majority of forged muscle-cavity irons on the market are built from 1025 Carbon steel, Srixon has instead elected to utilize 1020 Carbon once again. The lower “carbon count” of the 1020 should have a more dense sensation to create a “softer” feel without sacrificing strength and thusly the distance potential of the design. One of the big draws for many with the Z 745 release from Srixon was the feel, with the Z 765’s that has returned, and when combined with some mass movements that will be covered later, there is an even more “plush-power” sensation to the irons that should appease even the most hardcore of the forged crowd.

• More Spin Control – “All iron faces feature 5 percent larger grooves compared to the previous generation and Double Laser Milling. This improves contact, especially in wet conditions, for consistent spin control.”

Srixon actually widened the grooves in the Z65 series compared to the previous iterations. The idea is simple, larger grooves allow more debris to be channeled away through impact which will lead to better face contact and more consistent spin creation. Added into all this is the fact that Srixon has utilized the “Double Laser Milling” as well to increase the surface roughness to help create more spin consistency off the rack as well. During testing every lie imaginable was thrown at the Z 765’s and the ability to hold greens was uncanny at times, even on the vaunted bottom groove miss. Funneling away more debris is huge when combined with what the previously discussed V.T. Sole accomplishes and that the design also produces more spin than a more game-improvement type. So basically, the spin is there naturally, but by modifying the grooves the consistency has been improved.

Performance Rundown:

As discussed in the opening, the first thing most will notice about Srixon’s Z 765 irons is their uncanny resemblance to their predecessors, at least upon first glance. Make no mistake, this is a calculated move by the company, and one that many others should take note of. The company received a wave of compliments on the looks of the previous version and as such realized that when something works, tweaking can be more beneficial than a wholesale change. The Z 765 are a combination of angles and curves finished in a duo of polished and satin chrome, a look that lets them stand firm as one of the best looking muscle-cavities on the market. Also of note, the Z 765 have more mass in the rear moved towards the toe than before. Beyond that, they present a slim but squared topline, minimal offset, decent blade length, and slightly more narrow soles.

While this reviewer isn’t one who subscribes to a lot of what goes on in the cast/forged debate, there is no denying that Z 765 create an audible and tactile feedback that will be considered “soft” by those who hit them. Naturally, the profile and design lends to creating a more solid sensation through impact, but it also allows for distinct feedback as to where contact is being made. Shots low on the face have a more dense-firm connotation to them, whereas higher is a bit more clicky. Similarly, the heel gives the harshest feedback, but that shouldn’t surprise given the lack of mass in that area of the clubface. The biggest change for this reviewer is that with the shift of mass towards the toe in the lower muscle-cavity, strikes there really feel like there is still something behind them, because there is.

Paired with the Nippon MODUS3 shaft option, the Z 765’s offered a high overall ball-flight for this reviewer with even the 5i reaching an apex of over 30 yards and increasing throughout the set, a welcome sight as a mid-ball hitter. While the smooth nature and flight profile of the MODUS3’s will definitely launch the ball higher than the other stock option of Dynamic Gold, the head itself is a large part of the ball flight. While the spin generated was lower than anticipated, combined with the CG and V.T. Sole the Z 765 are one of the easier to launch muscle-cavity sets this reviewer has tested. Even then, they respond as one would expect for a club aimed at more consistent ball strikers with all of the ability to flight the ball down and a large window of directional workability. Golfers who prefer a profile like these will be impressed with what Srixon has created because they are extremely conducive to hitting specific golf shots.

It is evident that an iron of this profile is not going to be the longest iron on the market, but in its category what was seen during review were ball-speeds and distance that is above average for the design type. The impressive attribute as it relates to distance though was with the consistency and dispersion seen on well-struck shots as well as misses. Even though there is only so much that can be done in a muscle-cavity, Srixon has maximized much of that by shifting the largest portion of the “muscle” on the flange towards the toe. Moving the mass like this, though not a major talking point from the company, is something we are seeing more and more in designs because it helps the CG while also increasing the stability of the head on more common toe misses.

Compared to the Z745, shots hit toe-side with the Z 765 held a much better line with less of a propensity to draw through gear effect. Strikes high on the face were met with the largest spin and launch increase leading to about a 1.5 club distance drop but maintained a good line. Additionally the low miss kept very good directional consistency and despite the lower flight was often capable of still keeping enough spin to hold the back of greens. The overall package is one of the more playable muscle-cavity designs this reviewer has worked with, though it is key to remember they simply aren’t going to be as forgiving as larger profiles out there, but Srixon has done well to maximize what the profile can do.

Parting Thoughts:

Based on aesthetics alone the Srixon Z 765 will be deserving of a closer look for most, but add in the technological tweaks and the performance is worth a look as well. Srixon has evolved a wildly popular design into something that isn’t just a quick and easy follow up. Though the profile won’t fit the needs of many amateurs, better ball-strikers will find a club that offers a smaller profile combined with consistent performance and a very nice feel that stands up well against anything else in this market segment.

The Z 765 irons have a starting price $1099.99 for an eight-piece set, and more information on them and the entirety of the new line will be available on 60stoday.com.

Club exigeant

valentingentina 29/06/2018

Très bon club, un bon touché mais attention ce sont des clubs forgés donc exigeants pour des vitesses de swing plutôt rapide (si l’on veut lever la balle). Ils pardonnent légèrement, on sent tout de suite quand une balle est mal contactée. Les distances sont standards. Le design est magnifique comme toujours chez mizuno.

Pros: The shallow design of the G25 fairway woods makes them easy to hit off the fairway and the tee, and the look of the G25 hybrid is much improved over the driving iron-like G20.

Cons: They’re not adjustable, and might be too high spinning for golfers with a lot of clubhead speed.

The Bottom Line: The matte black finish and traditional shaping make the G25 fairway woods and hybrids are as good looking as any others. They’re also performers — the combination of a low, rearward CG and high MOI makes the G25 fairway woods some of the most forgiving available. The hybrids are winners as well, with progressive CG positions that creep forward to keep the higher-lofted hybrids from ballooning.

Overview

The G25 fairway woods have a higher launch, higher ball speed and more forgiveness than the G20. These changes were possible through the removal of weight from the perimeter of the faces. That not only made the club faces hotter and more forgiving, it allowed weight to be moved lower and deeper in the head. That created a higher launch and more forgiveness, particularly on shots hit low on the face.

The G25 fairway woods are available in 3 (15 degrees), 4 (16.5 degrees), 5 (18 degrees) and 7 (21 degrees) with Ping’s TFC 189F stock shaft. It comes in Soft R, R, S, Tour-Stiff and Tour X-Stiff flexes), and costs around $229.

Each of the new G25 hybrids, which are available is 17, 20, 23, 27 and 31 degrees, has a center of gravity that helps to create the ideal ball flight. In the low-lofted hybrids, the CG is positioned low and deep to help golfers launch the ball higher and with more spin than their iron equivalents, resulting in more playability and a greater carry distances.

But Ping’s higher-lofted hybrids (23 degrees or more) had a tendency to spin too much for most players in the past, leading to shorter carry distances and less control in windy conditions. That’s why the CG of the 23, 27 and 30-degree hybrids creep forward to help golfers reduce spin.

The G25 hybrids also feature a generous amount of camber and sole relief for playability from different surfaces. They’re available with Ping’s TFC 189H stock shaft in Soft R, R, S, Tour-Stiff and Tour X-Stiff flexes, and cost around $199.

Performance

Like Callaway’s X Hot fairway woods, the G25 fairway woods are extremely versatile from the fairway and light rough because of their shallow-face design. But the G25’s are higher launching, thanks to their lower, deeper CG position. They’re also more forgiving thanks to their higher MOI, which leads to extremely straight shots even on mishits.

Above: The shallow faces of the G25 (bottom) and G20 (top) fairway woods, which improves playability off the ground.

The higher launch and spin won’t be for everyone, but it will be the golden ticket for slower swing speed golfers who struggle with center contact and carry distance.

The G25 fairway woods made our list of Best Fairway Woods in 2013. Click here to see the other fairway woods that made the list.

The sole design of the G25 hybrids makes them playable from just about anywhere. My 20-degree G25 hybrid had a much higher ball flight than my 3 iron, which it replaces. But it was not so high that it negatively affected distance or was troublesome in the wind. I was pleased to find that the hybrid had 10 percent more carry distance than my 3 iron, and it was also more forgiving and much more playable out of the rough.

Looks and Feel

Golfers who like the G25 driver will like the G25 fairway woods, because they have a very similar look and feel at address. The matte black finish is easy to get used to and a welcome change from the glossy club heads that had become standard in the industry.

The thinner face of the G25 fairway woods provides more of the trademark Ping “crisp” sound that company has become known for, and the understated look of the stock shaft and grip are a nice match to the G25’s all-business appearance

Above: The G25 hybrid (left) has a much more traditional shape than the G20 hybrid (right), which looked more like a driving iron.

I can’t say enough about how good the G25 hybrids look at address. The minimal offset and hybrid shape seem just right, and Ping players will enjoy the seamless transition from a G25 fairway wood to presumably one of Ping’s forgiving iron sets.

The Takeaway

Above: The matte black finish of Ping new G25 fairway wood (left), compared to the gloss finish of last year’s G20 (right).

With the G25 fairway woods and hybrids, Ping looks to have found a way to add forgiveness to the hardest-to-hit clubs in the bag.

Many other manufacturers have struggled to provide game-improvement woods and hybrids that can transcend the power and feel needed off the tee, as well as from the fairway and deep rough. That should provide confidence for even low handicap players to really get into the new G25’s across the board.

Including the G25, Ping currently offers three different fairway wood and hybrid lineups (G25, Anser, i20) for the most demanding of player preferences and yardage gaps. The mid-level cost of the G25 will appeal to most high-handicap to mid-handicap players who want the latest in all-around performance without breaking the bank. But with a proper fitting that identifies the right shaft, the G25 fairway woods and hybrids can work for golfers of any ability level.

Clubs reviewed by GolfWRX Contributor Roger Genise

La Marque PING™ propose de customiser votre équipement de façon unique, hors options standard sur les produits. En Europe, PING n’autorise pas la vente en ligne de ses clubs, c’est pourquoi nous vous invitons à appeler notre pro au 1-568-981-8600 -98341 7 pour en savoir plus et créer un équipement qui vous correspond! N’hésitez pas à venir en magasin rencontrer nos vendeurs spécialisés en sur mesure.

PING – Driver G400 SFT

“Jamais un driver n’est allé aussi loin !”„

Le driver PING G400 SFT place l’aérodynamisme et la stabilité à un niveau jamais atteint. Le design multi-matériaux combine une traînée réduite, une face forgée pour augmenter la vitesse et la distance, et un poids arrière de tungstène pour rendre ce driver le plus rapide et le plus indulgent possible. Le modèle SFT favorise une face avec léger offset afin de favoriser des trajectoires en DRAW.

Face forgée plus rapide

Le processus de forgeage unique et le processus de traitement thermique breveté du visage T9S + permettent d’obtenir une surface d’impact plus fine et plus chaude qui est usinée avec précision pour élever la vitesse de la balle sur l’ensemble de la face pour une flexion de plus de 16%. En rendant la face 6% plus mince et 9% plus légere que son prédécesseur, un poids supplémentaire a été placé stratégiquement pour resserrer encore plus la dispersion. La face forgée a également contribuée à produire la sensation de puissance sur ce driver.

Forme plus rapide

La mise en forme simplifiée s’harmonise avec des turbulateurs nouveaux et plus audacieux et la technologie Vortec pour réduire la traînée de 40% à mi-descente et 15% dans l’ensemble pour augmenter la vitesse du club.

Un son travaillé

Une recherche approfondie et une simulation par ordinateur couplée à la théorie de la musique ont permis aux ingénieurs de concevoir une architecture interne qui a affiné les fréquences pour produire un son plus profond et plus silencieux.

Facile à régler

Vous pouvez optimiser les conditions d’envol avant un parcours en réglant le loft de +-1° maximum avec cinq réglages en utilisant un embout du hosel en aluminium 7075 léger, aérodynamique et ultra résistant.

Shaft Graphite ALTA CB 55 ( Soft Reg 53g, reg 55g, Stiff 59g)

Le shaft à point d’équilibre élevé. Le centre de gravité est plus proche de l’extrémité du grip pour une tête plus lourde : moment d’inertie augmenté et centre de gravité abaissé. Vous aurez ainsi plus de puissance, d’élan et d’inertie et parcourrez avec précision une plus grande distance.

Shaft graphite Tour 65 ( Reg 57g, Stiff 61g)

Retrouvez également les autres Drivers disponibles de la Marque PING.

Couvre club fourni +Clé de reglage

Garantie constructeur: un (1) an à compter de la date de facturation, selon les conditions de garantie de la marque.

The X-step in disc golf is one of the fastest ways to increase your distance. There are many ways to approach throwing a golf disc, but the X-step has proven to be one of the most effective methods for achieving maximum distance.

The X-step is footwork used by players in disc golf to engage the largest muscle groups in the body. This footwork transfers the optimal force into the disc propelling it forward great distances.

How do you execute the X-step when throwing a golf disc? The X-step is performed in four steps (from the perspective of a right handed player):

1. Step with your left foot forward
2. Step with your right foot forward and across the front of the left foot
3. Step with your left foot behind the right foot creating an X with your legs
4. Reach with your right foot out in front as far as you can

After you have taken these four steps, you’ll be locked and loaded to actually throw your disc. However, just following these simple steps is not enough. To actually gain distance from this, you’ll need to understand exactly how to position your body during each stage.

It can be easy to place your feet or hips r shoulders in the wrong direction and negate the power that could be gained from this movement.

Once you understand the fundamentals of this process, you’ll still need to practice it many times to develop the appropriate muscle memory. Understanding the steps and stages is important, but doing it correctly many times is what will really payoff.

Performing the X-Step – With Diagrams

Let’s look at the X-step in 11 stages so we can see where our bodies should be positioned at each point.

Stage 1

Start in a neutral position at the back of the tee box. Sometimes it is useful to stand at the front of the tee box and take four giant steps backwards. This will put you at about the right distance away from where you’ll end your footwork.

Point your feet directly at your target to start.

Stage 2

Take one step forward with your left foot. Your left foot should be planted with the toes still pointing forward toward your target. This should be a small step forward just to get your momentum going.

Stage 3

Begin to bring your right foot forward. Your shoulders and hips will start to open up to the left.

Stage 4

Plant your right foot in front of and across your left foot. Your right foot should be forward more than your left foot in a staggered position pointing to the side of the tee box. This will allow you to easily move into the next step.

Stage 5

Begin to pull your left foot behind your right foot. At this point both feet will be pointed to the left of the tee box. Also, your shoulders and hips will be pointed this direction.

You’ll now start to bring the disc into position just under your chest.

Stage 6

Plant your left foot behind your right foot. Your legs will be creating an X formation here. This is the moment where you’ll be able to engage those large leg and hip muscles and generate power into the disc.

Stage 7

Your now at your final step with your right foot. Bring your right foot forward. Keep in mind that this will be the largest step you take during the footwork. Up until now you’ve taken relatively small to medium steps, but now you’ll be transitioning into a giant reaching step.

Stage 8

As you plant your right foot, you’ll want to point your foot slightly backwards. This will help you point your hips and shoulders backwards as well. By pointing these parts of your body backwards, you’ll be able to fully engage your body as you throw the disc.

Begin to reach back across your body with the disc, while keeping the disc at chest height. You’ll find your head no longer looking at your target. Instead it will also be pointed backwards to where you’re disc is loaded.

This is where the X-step footwork ends and your throw brings.

Stage 9

Start to pull your disc through across your body. Focus on keeping it on a straight line in front of you. Do not swing the disc around your body like a pendulum. Instead pull it on a straight line toward the target.

Stage 10

Allow your body to turn toward the target with your shoulders and hips. As this occurs, pivot on your right heel with the toes pointed up.

As you come to the apex of your throw, the power you’ve generated up to this point will allow the disc to rip from your grip to be flung toward your target. Do not open your hand to release the disc. Rather you should allow the disc to be pulled from your grasp. If you’ve generated enough power up to this point, you will be unable to hold on to the disc. This produces massive amounts of spin on the disc.

Stage 11

Follow through the throwing motion. As you’re right arm continues moving pass your body, you’ll find your left arm begin to also come forward and across the front of your body.

Disc Golf Driving Tips Using the X-Step

Tip #1 – Point Your Hips Back

One of the most common mistakes players will make during the X-step is opening up their shoulders and hips to the target during the reach back. If your shoulders and hips are pointed toward the target when you being to pull the disc through across your body, you’ll be losing most of what the X-step has to offer.

The point of the X-step is to generate power from your legs, hips and shoulders by turning them toward the target during the pull through. For this to happen, those parts of your body need to be pointed backwards.

Tip #2 – Move Slowly

Take it slow. Your shouldn’t need to sprint into your approach to still generate optimal power. A slow and controlled approach with an explosive movement during your last reaching step will be enough.

Tip #3 – Avoid Hopping

Some players will integrate a hop into their X-step at the point where their left foot crosses behind the right foot bringing both feet off the ground for a moment. This is unnecessary.

To be fair, I have seen some disc golfers use a hop and have huge distance. Although the majority of people I see using a hop end up breaking the fluidity of their footwork resulting in poor distance.

Tip #4 – Keep At It

When you first start using the X-step, you might find your distance not increasing that much, if at all. Don’t anticipate instance results from this. Give you body time to develop the muscle memory of the movements through many repetitions. Eventually you’ll get into a rhythm and find your drives consistently going further.

Tip #5 – You Don’t Always Need the X-Step

The X-step is intended for generating maximum distance. If you’re only throwing your disc a few hundred feet, a standstill throw will suffice. You’ll be able control the flight of your disc better using standstill form when throwing over short distances and you’ll save energy.

Also, sometimes a single step is just enough for medium distance throws. Just don’t get into the habit of using an X-step all the time.

Disc Golf X-Step in Slow Motion

It can be helpful to see things performed in slow motion. Below is a short video that shows four professional disc golfers throwing a golf disc while using the X-step in slow motion.

Notice the positioning and timing of each of their movements.

Best Type of Shoes for the X-Step

I’ve used all types of shoes for disc golf. Mostly regular running and hiking shoes. But if there is one thing that I’ve learned it is that just because a shoe is comfortable to wear doesn’t make it a good shoe for disc golf. Especially when you start using the x-step.

Of course, you want something comfortable when you’re playing, but you also need a shoe that is designed for disc golf conditions.

As you execute your X-step footwork, you want a shoe that isn’t going to slip. When that final reaching step is performed, I’ve seen plenty of people slip and get injured because their shoe didn’t have good traction. Myself included. You want the bottom of your shoe to have proper grip.

Also, one of the biggest problems I’ve had with shoes in disc golf is the stitching tends to come loose in certain areas. My right shoe is always the first to go because it is undergoing so much stress during that final stage of the X-step. The pivoting motion on the heel is the part that does it.

I really like the shoes that Adidas has put out on their Terrex line. Adidas is the first shoe company to start supporting disc golf through sponsorship so I feel it is important to support them in that. But also the advantage to this is they’ve put together shoes specifically for disc golfers. You can check out the various options they created here at Infinite Discs.

I particularly like the Terrex AX2R. The traction on the bottom is amazing and holds together well. Also, the waterproof material used in the design is nice because I’m often trudging through areas that are wet.

exellent

lepetitgl 21/07/2009

il est trop bien je l’adore laisser le moi j’ai douze ans et je le veux pour progresser s’il vous plait laisser le moi

Rear Suspension General

The rear suspension assemblies contain rear axle, springs and shock absorbers. Furthermore the rear axle is mounted to the rear of the engine via a ‘U’ bolted casting.

Shock Absorber Removal

• Lift the back of the vehicle safely in a controlled manner,
• Support the back of the vehicle some chocks or similar,
• Disconnect the lower shock absorber nut,
• Compressing the shock absorber, take off the upper shock absorber nut,
• Take off the shock absorber.

Shock Absorber Installation

• Compressing the shock absorber, torque the upper shock absorber nut until the bushings expand to the diameter of the washer,
• Refit the shock absorber,
• Torque the lower shock absorber nut until the bushings expand to the diameter of the washer,
• Lift the back of the vehicle off the chocks and situate in a normal position.

Rear Spring Removal

• Disconnect the lower shock absorber nut,
• Situate a floor jack under the center of the rear axle and jack until enough clearance exists to place jack stands under the axle tubes,
• Remove the ‘U-bolt’ and fittings,
• Take off the rear spring shackle assembly and front spring mounting fittings,
• Take off the spring.

Rear Spring Installation

Rear spring installation is the reverse order of above. However when tightening the shock absorber nut, do so until the bushing expands to the diameter of the shock absorber washer. All front spring hardware should be torqued to 21-25ft. lbs. (28-34 Nm). All other fittings should be torqued to 18-22Ft. lbs. (24-30Nm).

REAR AXLE REMOVAL

• Lift the back of the vehicle safely in a controlled manner,
• Support the back of the vehicle some chocks or similar,
• Take off the tires,
• Take off the muffler,
• Take off the triangle bracket fastening the differential to the engine frame,
• Disconnect the ‘U’ bolts holding the axle to engine frame,
• Take off drive belt and driven clutch,
• Disconnect the F/R shifter bracket nut and slacken the cable nuts,
• Take off the differential cable and bracket,
• Disconnect and take off the accelerator cable and remove the push nut attaching the cable to the governor,
• Take off the linkage rod off the governor,
• Take off all shock absorbers,
• Take off ‘U’ bolts and fittings from the springs with a 9/16” socket,
• Take off the clevis pins from the brake cables at the wheel brake levers,
• Take off brake cable,
• Remove the retaining rings from both ends of the brake cable,
• Situate a floor jack under the center of the rear axle and jack until enough clearance exists to place jack stands under the axle tubes,
• Remove ‘U’bolt and fittings from the spring,
• Remove the rear axle from the cart.

Rear Axle Installation

Rear axle installation is reverse order of above.

NEUTRAL LOCK

The neutral lock prevents the driven clutch from turning the back wheels when towing or during servicing. You can find the neutral lock at the direction selector.

To function the neutral lock carry out the following:

• Turn the keys to OFF and place the direction selector into REVERSE,
• Remove the seat,
• Retract and turn the neutral pin handle such that the pointed part of the handle aligns with the direction selector cam,
• Position the direction selector lever between FORWARD and REVERSE,
• The pin should lock into the hole, pocking the lever into place,
• To reinstate the direction selector, retract the neutral lock pin handle out and turn until the pointed part of the handle fits into the hole of the direction selector cam.

REAR AXLE

The rear axle contains a lube oil level check plug near the drivers side.

Checking the Lubricant Level

• Take out the check plug,
• Check the level, the optimum lubricant level is just below the bottom end of the threaded hole,
• Should lubricate be needed, remove the fill plug and fill with the aid of a funnel. Check level routinely when filling, total capacity is 40 fl. oz. (1.2L).

REAR AXLE DISASSEMBLY

Axle Shaft Removal and Disassembly

• Take off the outer snap ring from the axle tube,
• Fit a slide hammer to the axle shaft thread and take off the axle and bearing from the axle tube,
• Take off the bearing ensuring you support the bearing inner race on an arbor press bed,
• Put force to the threaded end of the axle shaft.

Axle Shaft Seal Removal and Replacement

• With the aid of snap ring pliers take off the bearing retaining ring,
• Retract and remove the axle shaft and bearing from the axle tube,
• Remove all fittings with a 17mm socket, lifting the tube from the casing studs,
• Take off the axle shaft seal with the aid of a seal puller,
• Replace seal with the aid of a plastic faced hammer and torque nuts to 26-31 ft. lbs. (35-42Nm).

Axle Shaft Replacement

• Slowly and surely reinsert the axle shaft and bearing into the seal,
• Turn shaft until spline marries with differential side gears,
• Reinstate outer snap ring,
• Spray WD-40 or equivalent on the outboard spline,
• Reinstate brake hub and drum, thrust washer, nut and new cotter pin.

Iron Round Shield is a Shield in Dark Souls 3.

An orthodox, round small shield made from metal. Small shields offer little damage absorption and stability, but they are lightweight and ideal for 60stoday.coml: ParryRepel an attack at the right time to follow up with a critical hit. Works while equipped in either 60stoday.com Type : Fast Short frames during the parry window and shorts recovery time.

Notes and Tips:

• Can be Infused and Buffed.
• Reinforced with Titanite.
• Provides an average block of 40.8%.
• One of the few quality small shields, with no stat requirements.
• Low weight for Flynn’s Ring users.
• Provides the highest stability of all small shields: 62 stability at +10 upgrade level.
• Has 10 parry frames, starting at frame 11 as seen below (small shield).

Location/Where to Find

• Starting shield for Thief class.
• Dropped by Hollow Soldiers at Lothric Castle and High Wall of Lothric.

Youtube Moveset and Location Videos:

(If your name is not on THIS list, please do not post videos here. If you wish to post videos, please click the link and apply in the thread)

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Iron Round Shield Upgrade Table

Table Key

In this tutorial I show you how to make a paracord get back whip.

This project is one that really shines when it comes to work with paracord. The get back whip is durable, colorful and unique.

So first, what is a get back whip? The get back whip is placed onto the clutch or brake lever and hangs freely. Usually two are used, one on each side. When riding the bike it then flies through the air.

While it has many uses, there is quite a debate on the original use for a get back whip. Is it a decorative item or a weapon? Let’s see what you can use it for:

Many benefits of the get back whip are completely legitimate. But still, when using one, it is prudent to check the local laws. Different states and countries have different classifications for what makes a weapon. And you probably don’t want any attention from police on this matter.

As far as I am concerned though, the get back whip is an excellent decorative item, one that many a rider will be proud to use. It takes skill to make and it catches the eye when made properly. Honestly, I don’t like anyone telling me what is a weapon and what is not- not the law, not anyone. A lock in a sock is just as effective for violence, so why would anyone spend hours making a decorative item to fight with it recklessly? Anywho, let’s focus on the craft of making one, not on the politics of the day.

In this post I will describe the supplies and the making process for such a whip. At the end you will find a full video showing you how to make one from start to finish. This should get you through the entire process, provided you have the patience to keep going! I wish you success. Keep your eyes on the prize when the going gets tough!

Sizing the get back whip

The first thing you will want to know when making a get back whip is how long should it be. This is usually stated before the project. Still, sizing a get back whip basically means making it functional. It should not be too long to touch the ground or to hit any parts of the bike. It should also not be too short to look silly. So what are some common lengths?

• 2 feet (short get back whip)
• 3 feet (medium get back whip)
• 4 feet (long get back whip)

As mentioned though, you will probably end up making either a standard length or something custom, in both cases you will know the length you want.

In our case we are going to make a 2 foot long get back whip, so a fairly short one. To make it longer, simply use more cordage in your two main cords.

In the 2 foot long get back whip, the length of the whip breaks down like this:

• 3 inches are used up by the pineapple knot (the ball)
• 4 inches are used up by the panic snap (the quick release mechanism)
• the rest, so 17 inches are made with crown knots (when making a longer get back whip you will simply make more of these)

Now, let’s take a look at the supplies needed for making a get back whip!

The supplies

The items needed to make a get back whip are fairly simple, but still at least some take a bit of effort to find.

So a few supplies will need to be gathered before we can begin making our whip. Now a brief description of the making process.

Making a paracord get back whip

To begin we take our mandrel (about 3 inches in diameter) and place our rubber band around it. We are then going to take one of our long pieces of paracord (in my case 27 feet long, each) and tuck it under the rubber band. We want about 12 feet of cord in our working end, with the rest tucked under the rubber band. We are going to use this cord to tie a 11L10B turk’s head- our base knot. The second cord, again another long one (27 feet) is used to add a pineapple interweave (the standard type 1, 2 pass) to the base knot.

Then, the working ends are worked to the middle of the knot so we can begin our crown knots. Now transfer your pineapple knot off of your mandrel and onto our pool ball.

Tighten the pineapple knot around the pool ball. The goal here is not only to tighten up the knot, but also to make sure the 4 working ends end up of the same length.

Then begin a series of crown knots, forming a crown sinnet. We are going to make about 17 inches of crown knots. Together with the pineapple knot, this should bring the total length of the whip to 20 inches.

The final 4 inches are added to the whip by attaching the panic snap. This is done using crown knots.

Finally, a decorative knot in the gaucho style is added at the snap end to secure the ends. The ends are tucked under the knot, the knot is tightened up and the ends cut. Melt the ends and you are done.

On the side where the pineapple knot is, another gaucho style, 4 stranded knot is added. We take two, 3.5 foot long strands and feed them through the crown sinnet to get 4 working ends. Tie the knot, tuck the ends under the knot, tighten the knot and cut and melt the ends.

Finally, the two decorative knots can be rolled in between two planks to make the decorative knots look nicer and more consistent.

Quite a task right! To not leave you in the dark, here is a full video tutorial. Enjoy and take it a step at a time, it is a proper project!

Best Wet Weather Golf Gloves

Golfing in wet weather is challenging, particularly when your grips get soaked and holding on to the club is like trying to hold on to a bar of soap.

To counter that, you need equipment to come to your aid.

Some of the best wet weather golf gloves actually grip better on the club when wet and can really help you to stay in control.

You might already have taken a look at our ultimate guide to the best golf gloves on the market.

What then are the best wet weather golf gloves? We’ve reviewed and tested them and have selected our favourites below to help you decide which will suit your rainy-day requirements.

Also make sure you check out our other golf glove guides too – such as the best golf gloves for winter, best kids golf gloves, and the best golf gloves for women.

Best Wet Weather Golf Gloves

FootJoy RainGrip Glove

Top Pick

+ Quick drying + Available as a pair – Won’t keep hands overly warm

FootJoy has long been an industry leader in terms of glove design and technology and the FootJoy RainGrip glove showcases their expertise. It’s one of the best wet weather golf gloves out there.

The autosuede knit palm provides tremendous grip in the wet. In fact, the wetter it gets, the better the grip. We found that, if you’re playing in the rain, it’s a good idea to get the palm of the RainGrip a little wet before you even start to maximise grip.

It’s very comfortable for a wet weather glove, lightweight and neat fitting with stretch properties meaning it hugs the hand nicely.

The QuikDry knit fabric has been designed not only to be quick drying, as the name suggests, but also breathable and flexible.

The ball marker and tee holder is a nice touch and actually comes in very useful on wet days, giving you one less reason to have to dig around in soggy pockets.

The FootJoy RainGrip is available either as a single glove or a pair and if you want to see the comprehensive FootJoy glove range, take a look at our guide on the best FootJoy golf gloves as well.

Cobra StormGrip Rain Glove

Ideal For Modern Golf

+ Excellent grip in wet weather + Index finger is touch screen compatible – No ball marker attachment

These gloves come as a pair, but you can, of course, choose to just wear one if you prefer.

They work well as a pair though and the fit and feel is excellent. They’re sleek and comfortable and feel on the grip is not compromised.

The grip provided by the StormGrip suede fabric is excellent and we found performance improved when they get wetter.

A nice touch is that the index finger is touch screen compatible so you can operate an electric trolley, GPS device or your phone without having to take them off.

Overall the Cobra StormGrip ticks a lot of boxes if you’re in the market for a solid wet weather golf glove – durable, comfortable, good fit, good grip, good looks – A good product.

TaylorMade Rain Control Glove

Top Grip Performance

+ Excellent grip + Durable – Only in pairs

The TaylorMade Rain Control Gloves are sold in pairs – They deliver exceptional grip and a good degree of warmth in wet weather.

They really do provide a good deal of extra confidence in challenging conditions as you can swing with confidence that the club isn’t going to end up following the ball down the fairway.

The micro fiber material is flexible and durable and the use of strong Nylon fabric contributes to these being extremely long-lasting gloves.

Despite the performance, the feel is also pretty good – they’re only 45mm thick, so certainly don’t feel cumbersome on the grip.

Under Armour Storm Rain Glove

Best To Stand Out

+ Good breathability + Lightweight – Limited protection from colder conditions

Sold in pairs, the Under Armour Storm rain glove is a stylish accessory as well as a highly practical one.

The textured palm construction delivers excellent levels of grip in the rain while the Under Armour Storm technology repels water without sacrificing breathability.

The seams have been taped to further emphasise the sleek finish.

We found the fit to be neat and the feel is excellent. Unless the weather gets super cold, you can pretty much do everything you need to on course with these gloves on. Without doubt these are among the best wet weather golf gloves on the market right now.

Zoom Aqua Control Glove

Tour Influenced Design

+ Superb, versatile fit + Excellent control – Kangaroo leather not as soft as some cabretta leather gloves

Developed in conjunction with Austrian Tour pro Marcus Brier, Zoom gloves are one-size fits all and have been engineered to fit like a second skin.

With FLEXX-FIT technology, essentially a Lycra-style section on the back that incorporates a mix of flex zones to fit the contours of a golfer’s hand, it does just that.

The back of the glove is stretch Lycra while the palm is kangaroo leather – highly durable and delivering excellent grip in wet conditions.

We like the fact that the glove’s structure is such that it doesn’t lose its shape, even when it gets wet. It’s a solid item of equipment.

Bionic AquaGrip Wet Weather Glove

Highly Technical Design

+ Ergonomically designed + Good value – Not the best looking glove

The Bionic AquaGrip glove boasts a unique design. Not only does it deliver excellent grip in wet conditions, but it’s also ergonomically constructed to mimic the human hand.

Bionic gloves are designed by a leading orthopaedic hand surgeon to deliver the ultimate grip on a golf club.

Anatomical Relief Pads have been strategically placed into the glove to eliminate the natural peaks and valleys of the human hand, to provide an even surface in which to place the grip of the club. This means grip strength is increased without the need to grip harder.

The fingers feature a pre rotated cut while Lycra patches over the knuckles further increase mobility.

We found this to be an extremely comfortable glove offering very good freedom of movement. Grip is good in wet weather and the construction seems solid and hard wearing.

Srixon Rain Glove

Solid All-Rounder

+ Quick drying + Great feel from suede palm – Small collar around wrist

These quick-drying gloves perform superbly well in wet and colder conditions.

The tour-proven microfibre suede palms will actually generate greater levels of grip as they get wetter.

The gloves are flexible and comfortable to wear and the closure tab ensures a close and comfy fit.

There’s good breathability, so they are also effective in warmer wet weather.

We’re impressed by how durable these gloves are – a great piece of equipment to keep in the bag.

MacWet Climatec Wet Weather Golf Glove

Best Versatile Model

+ Superb grip in wet conditions + Windproof – No ball marker attachment

MacWet’s Aquatec material is one of the very best wet weather golf gloves out there for delivering exceptional grip in wet conditions. These gloves, designed to be worn as a pair, can definitely help you hold on to the club when the rain starts to come down.

In addition, the gloves are water resistant and wind proof and fleece lined on the back to help keep your hands warm in cooler weather.

One of the great qualities of the MacWet gloves is their durability. They’ll easily last a full winter season and beyond. They’re comfortable to wear, quick drying and they look sleek and stylish to boot.

Another bonus is that these gloves can be used for other outdoor activities that require grip in wet conditions – fishing, horse riding or cycling for instance.

Mizuno RainFit Glove

Best Looking Glove

+ Sleek design and look + Durable – Only one colour option

This synthetic suede glove offers superb grip in the wet. In fact, it’s definitely one where you can say – the wetter the better. Grip does improve as it gets wetter.

It’s a stylish looking glove and it’s very comfortable and neat fitting. The closure system is solid and, overall it seems a highly robust product.

Available as a pair, the stretch wristband is a nice feature that further enhances fit and feel, as do flexible mesh inserts.

The glove has been designed using 3-D patterning to accurately follow the natural lines of the hand and we found it to be a sleek and high performing glove – Definitely one to consider if you’re looking for the best wet weather golf gloves.

Hirzl Trust Hybrid Plus+ Glove

Best For Color Choice

+ Dries nicely + Color choice offers something a bit different – Cheaper feel compared to others

Featuring a synthetic leather and Airtech mesh back and kangaroo leather palm, the Hirzl Trust Hybrid Plus+ glove offers something a little different.

Most leather gloves don’t cope well in wet conditions but this one performs well in the rain. It also recovers when it dries out, unlike standard leather options.

We enjoyed using this glove in both dry and wetter conditions – Not an out and out rain glove, but certainly one that stands up to rainy conditions.

It’s comfortable and it looks good in a range of bold colour options. It’s definitely one to consider if you’re looking for something with a bit of versatility.

Payntr X Glove

Superior Feel

+ Buttery soft feel + Classic golf glove look – Other models offer better wet weather protection

This innovative glove from Payntr golf is designed to offer the best of two sides of glove performance – the feel of leather with protection from the weather.

It’s constructed from an ultra-thin Cabretta leather for a soft and buttery, Tour inspired feel and a precise fit.

But, with the incorporation of a hydrophobic coating, it also repels water and offers excellent grip in challenging weathers.

Other technologies include an ergonomically-designed closure tab, strategic x-shaped perforation patterns to maximise flexibility and moisture-wicking, stretch elastic on the back of the hand for enhanced comfort and fit.

We hope you enjoyed this guide on the best wet weather golf gloves. For more buying advice check out the Golf Monthly website.